Poutine Dreams

It’s a complicated, ephemeral, sensory experience. It’s a fleeting succession of emotions…longing, excitement, bliss, confusion. Poutine is a savory reverie like nothing else I’ve tried.

Poutine is a beloved snack in Quebec and particularly popular throughout Montreal. The true beauty of the dish lies in cheese curds that don’t melt completely and remain squeaky when you bite into them. Legend has it that the dish’s name originated in 1957 when restaurateur Ferdinand LaChance received a request from a customer for French fries, gravy and cheese in a bag. He responded, ‘ca va faire un maudite poutine!’ Roughly translated; ‘that’s going to make a damn mess!’ A mess it may have been but also a culinary and cultural hit. Today, poutine is a fixture of the Quebec dining scene and a must-try!

I’m a believer that fries are merely a vehicle for sauce…and I don’t mean the sugary, vile, tomato-like substance that comes in a Heinz 57 jar. Fried potatoes should be crispy on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. They should be covered with a flavorful sauce and eaten with a fork. Like in Europe, the Quebecois understand this concept. Poutine is a real treat and frankly, what dreams are made of.

My first experience with Montreal’s favorite fast food was at the ‘resto’ Au Pied du Cochon in the Plateau neighborhood. The meal began with a bottle of pinot noir, crispy pig’s feet salad, lamb shank confit, and then the pièce de résistance…poutine topped with fois gras. The potatoes were crispy, the gravy was creamy, the cheese curds were soft, and the fois gras melted in my mouth. ‘Oh Mon Dieu!’ I said to myself.

I had to have poutine again to repeat that empyreal, cholesterol induced, high. For a less haute cuisine version, my sources pointed me toward La Banquise in Parc La Fontaine’s north end. It’s a friendly, hippie-meets-hipster diner that specializes in poutine and serves two dozen variations. I entered the ‘resto’ and while inhaling the grease filled air I thought to myself, ‘how many calories is that breath going to cost me?’ I chose Poutine Rachel; fried potatoes, gravy, cheese curds, onions, peppers, and mushrooms. It was fattening, and satisfying. Even more, it provided me with extra padding for the chilly day.

Like the different layers of poutine, Montreal is complex, charming, and leaves me wanting plus en plus. An enormous joie de vivre pervades Montreal. It’s a place that embraces its rich history and looks forward to its bright future. It’s the largest city in Quebec province and the most French region in all of North America. It’s modern in every regard. As a UNESCO City of Design it’s got skyscrapers in unexpected shapes and colors, a beautifully preserved historic district, a large area of artist’s lofts, boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. Cold and snowy for nearly eight months every year, it’s a place where the weather is frigid but the people are warm and hospitable.

It’s a big city (nearly four million metro residents) but maintains a friendly and welcoming culture. Nearly everyone speaks French and English and effortlessly switches between the two languages for your convenience. Montreal feels like the lovable child of Paris and Denver. It’s chic and outdoorsy, big and intimate, serious and sweet, French and American.

Everything about Montreal is enchanting. From the calorific poutine sold around the city, the picturesque cobbled streets of old town, the boutique and café-lined sidewalks of Plateau Mont Royal, the silence and unearthly beauty in the Basilique Notre-Dame, the complicated mazes of the 21 mile underground city, the twang of the Quebecois accent, and the hum of daily life for Montreal residents; this city is has a captivating personality all its own.

Back home, after a fabulous trip to Montreal, I can’t help but daydream about the city and all of its complexities... most of all the satisfying and tasty mess, Poutine.

Note: Denverites- If you can't make it to Montreal and have a hankering to try Quebec's beloved snack, Euclid Hall serves three versions of Poutine.

Photo Credit: Top, courtesy of Joyocity, Flickr Creative Commons

New Way Jose

Cotton Candy Fois Gras, Grasshopper tacos, Almond Gazpacho, Cretan Snails, Dragon’s Breath Popcorn... You gasp, ‘no way Jose!’ Yes indeedy, superstar chef, José Andrés has conceptualized these and many other avant garde dishes that tease and tantalize his many admirers.

While the talented Senior Andrés no doubt has throngs of devoted fans, I consider myself to be one of his most loyal groupies. I’ve traveled coast to coast to dine at six of his restaurants, have worked my way through his cookbook, and faithfully follow him and his evolving career with keen interest.

This is a travel blog and believe it or not, a rundown of José Andrés’ restaurants is a voyage in and of itself. Where in one city can you go to Spain, Turkey, Greece, Lebanon, China, and Mexico? The multicultural backdrop of our nation’s capitol is the perfect setting for the José Andrés restaurant empire.

José Andrés allows diners in Washington, D.C, L.A., and recently Las Vegas to experience the concept of small plates done José's way. Five of his seven restaurants are located in the District of Columbia.; Jaleo, Zaytinya, Oyamel, Café Atlantico, and Mini Bar. Each is strikingly unique and showcases Andrés’ versatility. Bazaar, located smack in the middle of the luxe lobby of the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, is in my opinion, the love child of the Mini Bar and Jaleo concepts.

My first experience with the genius that is José, as I lovingly refer to him, was with my best friend and foodie inspiration, Andra. We were in Washington, D.C. for a student government leadership conference which, while useful, was a great excuse for a vacation. Outwith the conference, we saw the sights, soaked up the history of our nation’s capital, strolled around the charming city and had a very serendipitous run-in with a little tapas bar called Jaleo.

Sangria flowing, we enjoyed tapas like Patatas Bravas with Aioli, Fisherman’s Soup, Chorizo with potato purée, Grilled lamb chops with rosemary sauce, and Fruit soup with homemade cheese ice cream. An assortment of small plates covered our table with a delectable spread. We navigated our way through the comprehensive menu by sampling eight different dishes. Tapas are a Spanish concept that allow diners to taste a wide range of different flavors by sharing multiple dishes with friends. Jaleo offers a modern interpretation of the traditional Spanish way of eating; ‘José’s Way’.

Chilled Fruit Soup

To really understand ‘José’s Way’ more research is required. Zaytinya is a great place to start. Located just five minutes walk from Jaleo; from 7th Street to F Street, past the National Portrait Gallery (one of my favorite places in Washington, DC), and onto 9th Street to Chinatown; the pleasant walk works up an appetite. Zaytinya means olive oil in Turkish and sets the tone for Andrés’ prettiest restaurant. The walls are Aegean blue and candles are lit in every nook and cranny. Large glass bottles of amber-colored olive oil are placed throughout the restaurant and showcase the Mediterranean’s finest export.

The food at Zaytinya is Turkish, Greek and Lebanese style mezzes, similar to the Spanish tapas tradition. Small plates like hommus (purée of chickpeas, garlic and tahini), imam bayildi (Ottoman style roasted eggplant stuffed with onions and tomatoes), Cretan Snails (potato puree, garlic broth, beech mushrooms, ouzo), Kibbeh Nayah (Lebanese style beef tartare ground with bulgur wheat, radish, mint, and served with pita chips) entice the smart Washingtonians that frequent Zaytinya. One particularly chic Washingtonian, my good friend Jen, is one whom I shared many famed happy hours with at Zaytinya. It’s a great spot to share some hommus while catching up on the day’s happenings.

If happy hour is what you’re after Oyamel Cocina Mexicana is another great stop. Located in the Penn Quarter neighborhood of Washington, D.C. Oyamel combines Mexico’s rich regional diversity with the modern urban atmosphere of Mexico City. Aside from the phenomenal cocktail list diners can share antojitos, Mexican style small plates, as well as an assortment of creative tacos. If you’re feeling brave try the grasshopper tacos or play it safe with Yucatan-style pit barbecued pork with pickled red onion and Mexican sour orange, or Sautéed seasonal wild mushrooms with garlic and shallots, served with guacamole. An absolute must is the Oyamel margarita, José Andrés’ personal favorite, with Siembra Azul blanco, Luxardo Triplum, fresh lime juice and salt “air”.

Grasshopper Tacos

Cocktails are a great strength in all of José Andrés restaurants. At Café Atlantico the Passion Fruit Martini leaves you buzzing long after the orange rum, ginger-jalapeno infusion, and passion fruit juice and espuma has left the body. The Nuevo Latino cuisine at Café Atlantico is playful and flavorful. The vibrant colors of the restaurant and chill music transport diners on a mini-vacation. Dishes like the fois gras soup with floating islands of corn and wild mushrooms; Dominican conch fritters with jicama-avocado ravioli, passion fruit oil; and Sea scallops with cauliflower purée, cauliflower ‘couscous’, cocoa butter, and American caviar leave diners with the experience of Chinese Dim Sum... Latino style.

Though Café Atlantico is special, it fails in comparison to the exclusive experience of Mini Bar. A six-seat bar top located on the second floor of Café Atlantico, Mini Bar is where José Andrés really plays with his food. He experiments with molecular gastronomy and transforms ordinary things into unearthly culinary creations. The innovative tasting menu features 26-30 of José‘s most imaginative creations. This is food that owes as much to art and science as it does to gastronomy, food that is as much about the brain and eye as it is about the tongue and stomach, food that forces the diner to rethink food and its presentation.

The exclusivity of Mini Bar is quite astounding. To make reservations you must call exactly one month prior to the day you wish to make reservations, call at exactly 10:30am and endure a constant busy signal, until your call is answered by the hostess. There are so many people that want to experience Mini Bar and with only six seats and two seatings per evening, it takes commitment and devotion, even for epicureans and José fans alike.

If your heart is set on trying José Andrés’ molecular gastronomy but you aren’t able to get reservations at Mini Bar there is an alternative. The Bazaar in Los Angeles offers some of highlights of the gastronomical circus that is Mini Bar. Set in the luxe lobby of a Beverly Hills hotel, oozing with flamboyant glamour, The Bazaar maintains the same theatricality of Mini Bar but is more accessible. I made reservations three days in advance and was promptly accommodated on my first call.

The menu is separated into traditional tapas (much like the food at Jaleo) and contemporary tapas (much like the food at Mini Bar). Don’t worry, you don’t have to choose! You can mix it up and get the best of both worlds. The ‘Philly Cheese Steak’ is like no cheese steak you’ve ever tried and the El Bulli Olive, is an experience you’ll never forget. The olive is an emulsion of perfect olive purée, encapsulated with the sodium alginate process, and then brined. When you bite into it, there is a little snap through the skin, and then your mouth floods with intense olive oil. This is what you wish an olive could be.

El Bulli Olives

My devotion to Andrés’ cuisine was tested when I visited The Bazaar. I did not falter, I did not waver. I did whatever was necessary to eat there. I was visiting Los Angeles with my husband and one year-old son. We had arranged a babysitter, whom without warning failed to show up. We waited and waited and finally decided to cart along our toddler to one of the most sought after restaurants in L.A.. As inappropriate as it was to bring my son along; I couldn’t, I wouldn’t give up my reservation and The Bazaar experience.

Fois Gras Lollipops

It was indeed a bazaar experience with a toddler. The wait staff looked at us as though we were dining with an alien. When we asked for a high chair they stared blankly, like deer in headlights. They managed to round one up…from somewhere in the hotel. On the drive over my husband and I prepared a list of everything we wanted to order…to save time once seated. We were working with a 45 minute time frame before our little ticking time bomb exploded into tantrums of boredom. Each dish arrived to our table and we enjoyed every one with unbridled enthusiasm; snapping photos and savoring each creation, letting the flavors linger on the tongue before swallowing. After the initial shock of hosting a child in their posh restaurant wore off, the wait staff and hostesses began approaching our little gourmet with smiles and waves as he politely enjoyed an assortment of bazaar offerings.

José Andrés has fostered the small plate concept and has built a culinary empire. From coast to coast, and with flavors from around the world, this forty-two year-old Spanish chef has endowed throngs of Americans with a love for tapas. Andrés' food is centered on the concept of sharing innovative food with friends over good conversation…preferably about food. Tapas, mezze, Dim Sum, Antojitos, tasting menus...you name it! José Andrés does small plates with a twist- 'New Way Jose'.

Check out my favorite Jaleo recipe, Patatas Bravas.

Check out my favorite Jose Andres dessert recipe, Chilled Fruit Soup.

Note: China Poblano, Andrés newest addition located in the Cosmopolitan Hotel of Las Vegas, is now open...surely the best bet in Vegas.